Friday, April 20, 2007

India Journal 2006 #46 April 20th...AND NOW IT BEGINS!




Took my first walk to Dharamkot today, up to the mountains I so love. Woke at 6, finished my morning stuff and was down to breakfast at 8 but most of the restaurants were still closed. Ate at Nickes and then headed up for my first walk to Dharamkot. As you can see from the pics, THESE things do not change. I was up on the mountain by 9 and it was still quiet...just the sound of my footstpes, and the birds and cicadas could be heard. I've shot a couple of vidoes but like the others, they will wait until I get home to post. I had trouble picking and choosing so there are just lots of pics here....click "read more" to see the rest:









BELOW...THE END OF THE RHODENDANDRUNS BLOOMING...MISSED THEM IN ALL THERE GLORY!




JUST SOME LOVELY VIEWS...NOTE THE ONES WITH A SMALL TOWN IN THE DISTANCE? THAT'S MCLEOD WHERE I AM STAYING.

















Easy up and easy back...I'm not really in shape for all this walking and was a little concerned...especially since I have sent home my hiking boots and was just wearing my regular sneakers...But I feel a new vitality, renewed energies since the Panchakarma. It would have been easier on my legs and feet with the boots, especially the steep downhill parts, but not as pleasant and comfortable walking. And nothing hurts so I assume all is well.

SOME PICS HERE OF PRAYER FLAGS BLOWING IN THE BREEZE...AND SOME OF THE LOVELY FLOWERS BLOOMING ON THE ROCKS AND SIDES OF THE ROAD...














BELOW SMALL ALTERS MADE FROM ROCKS...YOU MUST WALK PAST THEM FROM THE LEFT




AND THE FLOWERS;












BELOW SOME WOMEN ON A ROAD WORK TEAM ON MY WAY DOWN...



But my spirits are restored and I now know what keeps bringing me back here. Despite the town, the mountain doesn't change! Came back in time for lunch and, as you can see from one of the pics, the clouds were already rolling in from the mountain,


and by the time lunch was over, it was pouring. It seems to rain every day here! So checked out the movies and made it just in time for "Little Miss Sunshine", which was lovely. I recommend it.

Now back in my room, it's after 4. Hope to begin posting today but now must pack as tomorrow is moving day. Yuck!

Well, finished my packing as you can see, and finally have some pictures to share with you as well. The posts lately have been very boring I know.

Namaste
Jane

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April 19th continued..... THE CHOICE IS OURS...CHOOSE HAPPINESS!

OK, OK, I know a lot of you don't like when I write about food, but there is no way to get away from it in McLEod. And with all my good intentions, I will be gaining weight here for sure. What to do!? I will do my best to still keep to my diet however. Have found a place that has a GOOD fruit salad and even fresh carrot juice. And another place with BEET juice, so that's another good thing. Jimmy's Italian on Jogibara, new , quiet, upstairs, beautifully decorated and not expensive.

But first, at Moonpeak cafe, where I sat out the rain. I had a poached chicken open sandwich with Mango Lime sauce and lovely lettuce and grated carrot salad dressed in olive oil. For only 50 rupees. Managed not to succumb to the cappucino, only to get caught in the rain again
(at least I have something to blame it on!!) and find myself at Jummy's. Having ordered an Irish Cream Coffee for only 30 ruppes and apple crumble cake....what to do!!

Their cappucino is only 25 rupees as compared to 40-50 in other places. They have a full meal of chicken in a variety of forms and sauces for only 120 rupees, green slalad, steamed veggies and all kinds of pastas, baked dishes, pizza, etc. for 60-85 rupees and even tuna melt, grilled chicken sandwiches etc. Really nice.

So, if I have already decided this is a vacation, I will allow myself to indulge on occassion, and there are TONS of new places here to do that in.

I've spoken to 2 more local friends here who also agree that the place has changed tremendously and predict that in 2 years time, tourists will stop coming and slowly it will become the new INDIAN vacation place. And they are pleased with this as they can charge much higher prices to Indians than they can to tourists. Already the stone/jewelry place I usually shop in has made changes. He is now selling only precious gems, and lots of them to rich tourists. His brother now travels the world looking for unusual gem stones and crystals which they polish and work themselves and they have opened a branch in Canada!

SO, VACATION, HERE WE COME!!

Same day, evening....
Funny, but as soon as I decided that this i smy vacation spot, I began to enjoy myself. And just as I got back to my room, a woman I met a few days ago just sitting at Nick's called and asked if I'd like to meet her for dinner. So I am now at Nick's waiting for her. Nice Slovanian lady, my age, named Yana (same name as mine she says). I did some needlepoint, did my toenails, read and now am here enjoying the view and the "relax". It is true. We are the only ones who can decide how we feel in any situation and the choice is ours at every point of the way!

In today's newspaper (which I never read but just picked up now while waiting)...front page article:

"Rajdani, Shatabdi Food is Stale:. Seems the stomach upset I had after travelling on the train has been explained. Seems they prepare the food 7-8 hours before serving it and it is not always kept at ideal conditions before reheating it on the train. hmmmmm!

"Getting a berth in the first class AC bogie of Shatabdi Express may just prove your ticket to the hospital!".

Just a work about Yana....really sweet lady...has been in India for 2 years straight follwoing her two gurus...a swami down South and the Karmapa (Buddhist) here. Although we have taken very different paths, we have both reached the same peacefull acceptance of our current place of personal growth and spiritual developemnt and she was so at ease and full of life. And unpretentious (opposite of most people I meet here...we agreed on that point...people take things SO seriously, including themselves, but never seem to get th point of the whole thing that they are doing...a happy, more content life for themselves and everyone they come in contact with. We have made a date to meet again and do "cards" for each other for fun!

Namaste
Jane

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Thursday, April 19, 2007

India Journal 2006 #45 April 18-19...Beginning to See Things in a Differnt Light

Wednesday, April 18th

Went up to Bhagsu today. Even checked a couple of places to stay. Have an alternative if I decide to leave McLeod. Same place I stayed several years ago when my stuff was stolen...Seven Seas...they even remembered me. I'm worried there is no fan there but we'll see.

I want to move on Staruday and see how I feel being completely alone on my own for awhile. I am beginning to understand that what I wrote in one of my last journal entries in 2004 is true. I wrote that I had a feeling I would never return "to this place" again. Well, I've returned to McLeod but it is not "this place" anymore. It did nothing special for me when I first arrived,
at it always has in the past, and is not growing on me with time. Walking up to Bhagsu was just a nice walk. (discovered a nice Dhaba right near twon that has Mung Dahl Tali, so that's a find!!). I will go up to Dharamkot and if I am not hassled by Anil, it may be what I need to move my soul once more.

But I will still use this as a pleasant R&R place for now since I am already here.

Aside from everything else, it is reaining and nasty and although I am enjoying music in my room and cards and ready, I am hungry and the food here is not as it used to be, so will just wait out the rain and then go for dinner. It is a soft summer rain but still brings a chill to my body and am glad I kept the few warm things I did with me. I am wearing them now! If it sotps soon (it is now 5 PM) I will go eat something lite and see about a movie.

Later Same evening....

I'm beginning to come to terms with the place. It will be for me now just a nice vacation place. No expectations of finding what I once had here but accepting it as a whole new place and experience.

Had a late dinner. It is light until after 7 now, not like in the fall when it gets dark (and cold) by 4:30. And although it rained, it is still pleasant for walking. Not really cold. Came back to my room at 8 and had a quiet hour of music and off to sleep.

Thursday, April 19th

Got up early as I am used to here and now it is 8:15 and I am already down at Nick's for breakfast.

Sun is shining and it is really pleasant. Quiet at this hour of the morning as well. Streets empty of the daytime hordes and traffic.

Will check out one last hotel now and then make my final dcision about moving on Saturday. May go up to Dharamkot today..will see.

Well, met a few really nice people at breakfast...one nice lady from France whose daughter married a Kashmiri she met in Bhagsu and is now living with him in France. She is my age, also a grandmother, always worked privately and has no pension, and has the same idea as me to spend part of each year in India living and hopefully working. We talked about going together to Amristar and I will price things (so far got a price of 4200 rupees for a taxi there and back with overnight wait) and perhaps we will go together in a couple of weeks.

I am thinking of at least finding a Hindi teacher and trying to learn some more Hindi as long as I am here. Will check it out as well once I move.

When I finish here, will go up to Dharamkot by rickshaw (feeling lazy but still want to get up there for awhile)....and hopefully have a full and pleasant day.

Namaste for now
Jane

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Tuesday, April 17, 2007

India Journal 2006 #44 April 16-17 McLeod Beginnings

April 17
Yesterday, Monday, I had a relaxing day, not doing much of anything...visited a friend, had some pockets sewn into the new pants I bought at Anokhi, got caught in the rain (!)...not hard...and sat at Nick's for a couple of hours until it past...At lunchtime I had tried 4 different restaurants and none of them were willing to make me boiled vegetables of soup without cauliflower, cabbage and potatoes. They were not even friendly or apologetic about it. Just said "not possible" and walked away. So at Nick's, I asked again, and although

they thought it was weird, they said it would be no trouble. And so finally got a nice bowl of vegetable soup and a plate of steamed veggies with just vegetable I can eat in it.

I will slowly figure out where I can eat things that are good for me. already found a French Restaurant which makes good fresh salad, but there is no place I can get a really good fruit salad here and I miss that.

While sitting at Nick's, as the rain rolled in, my hip began hurting and I was quite upset...not from the pain but by the fact that it hurt...but it only lasted for a few hours, and it was not severe at all,. just annoying, and by the time I went to sleep it was gone and today there is no problem at all.

Today woke up early, and, as I began 3 days ago, am back to my regular morning stuff including Yoga and it feels good. And today I spent the day with Abdellah which was, as always, great fun. We caught up with each other and the changes in our lives...talked about the future, ate a good meal, had coffee (I had mint tea) and later he even talked me into sharing a piece of cake with him!! I also closed the deal on my new room at the Takhyil Guesthouse which is centrally located but the rooms face off the street (Jogibara road) and are very quiet. Each room has screens on the windows, a big closet, plenty of floor space to do yoga, and a table and 2 chairs so if I decide to work there is plenty of room, and the best thing, is that there is a ceiling fan! It is also a corner room so I have two large windows....And there is a terrace on the floor if I want to sit outside and restaurant downstairs which is convenient. It is not ideal, but the only thing I could get in a good location, and he came down a little in price, so it is more than I've ever paid in McLeod before, and somewhat over my budget (10,000 rupees a month), but the only thing even touchable anywhere I've looked. It is high season and every place has raised prices by 100-300 rupees a day more. Kailwood is the only cheap place in a good location around, and that's why there are never any rooms there!

I will be moving in there on Saturday (Abdellah is coming to help me) and then I will begin deciding if I want to stay here or not. so far the town is not what it used to be....many new shops catering to rich people, VERY crowded, much vehicular movement which I am not used to here...really hard to walk around town...and it is still dirty as always....Hopefully when I begin going up the mountain I will feel somewhat better.

Near the guesthouse are some really nice new restaurants which look like I will also find good food there, as well as good internet places, so I don't have to go far for these things.

So, I will update as things happen and I know more about my feelings and my plans for the next 2 months.

Namaste
Jane

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Monday, April 16, 2007

INSIGHTS AND UNDERSTANDING

April 15, McLeod
I haven't written much about inner insights and understandings this trip. It seems I've been around others the whole 2 months without much time for inner thought or movement. But just this evening it came to me so clear and simply:

More than anything, I've truly learnt the meaning of living in the moment and by doing so, with complete faith in the wisdom of god and His Univers, I have found the secret of a truly happy and easy existence. I have been working and writing and teaching about Mindfulness and living in the moment for the past 3 years, and this has been for me a validation of everything I've been working on and trying to help others live as well.

Wanting more, or different, or faster, or whatever, only leads to frustration and fears of "what if"..."why me"..etc. Truly being with each moment and living each day as fully as possible and in true gratitude for each day's belssings, brings us true inner peace.

There have been many unexpected things this trip, but I have found the tranquility within to accept and embrace each new things as it comes my way, with true equanimity and grace...and I feel so at peace despite the unexpected at each turn.

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India Journal 2006 #43 April 13-15 Train Ride and Arrival in McLeod, Dharamsala

Well, the train ride was smooth....arrived at the train station and of course was surrounded by porters and for this train I need one to get to the proper platform. One guy came over and said 100 rupees for 1 bag and I simply gave him a look and started walking away. Another guy came over to me and asked what happened and I told him the price was ridiculous and he said regular price is 50 rupees and told the other guy off! Funny thing was, while walking to the train platform, there was an announcement, which was actually reapeated every 10 minutes or so, that porters are to be paid 50 rupees for one bag up to 40 KG and if anyone over charges, you should get their number and report them to the station manager. this is really something new. Standardizing pricing is beneficial to everyone...customers as well as the porters themselves.

Got onto the train, met a couple of girls in the next cabin and we arranged to take a taxi together to save money. Two nice young Jewish girls from Toronto and we talked about places they've been in in Israel before finally retiring to our respective cabins.

Then met the other 3 people in my cabin...a Russian couple and a guy from Israel, Avi. They asked about getting to McLeod and told them they could come with me and I'd help them also get a taxi.

The trip was nice...there was a couple with a l2 year old child and fun talking a little to her and finally drifted off to sleep and slept well until 6:30. We arrived in Pathankot at 8 AM and all six of us went to the taxi stand. When I told the guy we needed 2 taxis...




he said it would be cheaper for all 6 of us to go together. Instead of 1300 for a taxi with three, we could get a jeep for either 1500 or 1700 rupees for all 6 of us. I asked Avi, who knows about cars, which jeep he suggested and he pointed to the 1700 one. It was a Toyota and I have NEVER had such a comfortable ride anywhere in India before.

I arrived at Kailwood only to find that there was no room available for me...I had this feeling for some time that there would be a problem. When I spoke to them last on the phone I even jokingly said, if I arrive and there is no room, I am sleeping in Kokila's room (the owner) when I arrive. Well, sure enough, that's the room I am now sleeping in. Kokila was upset that there was no place for me but not particularly apologetic...says I can stay in her room for 10 days or so until I make other arrangements. Nice room but I am uncomfortable being there...something energetically wrong with the room...can't put my finger on it. Also the bed is a board...so hard it hurts to lay down on it, but asked for a quilt which I put down over the mattress and now it is OK to sleep on, at least temporarily.

at any rate, I saw Nikolai, who said he would help if he could, and then decided to just go out and find a room. Spent 3 hours (!) checking every guesthouse I could find which seemed to be in a location I could comfortably live in, and noen had rooms. Some were willing to save a room for me for a few days from now, but they were all too expensive and not willing to come down in price even for a long term stay as it is high season now.

Went to see my friend Gill, who was very happy to see me and told him my problem. He called a friend who has a hotel here but it was also too expensive for me. And no room available anyway.

I finally got to this place very far out of down down a very steep hill called Hunted Hill, which was really nice. I am now looking for a place with fan as it will be hot here in another month for sure....And this place had everything, but was too expensive. The manager said he would speak to the owner and would call me in the evening...which they did and he agreed to lower the price somewhat for me and I told him I would be in touch in a few days.

Had lunch at the Japanese restaurant and it was as delicious as always. Among the people who actually recognized me and were happy to see me, were a couple of "beggar friends" from past years. I always thought they never really paid attention to people who gave them money, but a couple of them I had given special help to in the past, and as soon as they saw me, big smiles came over their faces. In their broken English, and my very very broken Hindi, they told me how they were doing, one of the stories quite sad as both his baby and father had died this year, but seeing them was good. I know it may sound funny being happy to be remembered by beggars, but it means that they DO see people as individuals and not just hands giving them money. (Or medicine, or schoolbags for their kids etc). I think they particularly appreciated the fact that I am always willing to sit and listen to them for awhile...as a friend might.

I slept very well that first night. Stomach still a little shakey, but otherwise feeling very energetic. Will force myself to take it slowly at the beginning.

Got some of theings I needed for now (a kind of supermarket has opened up here!!). Many changes...VERY crowded or maybe this is a season I have never been before. It is not like this Oct-Dec. Jogibara road has been repaired and for the first time ever is easy to walk on.

Nice to see old friends, Evelyn, Nikolai, Susie, Abdella coming tomorrow, Shajar is here. Met other regulars who are staying here. Nice people but I think this whole thing of no room being available is a message for me that it is time to move on to a new place and have time with myself. I am looking forward.

Met a lady "by chance" today who is looking for a Reiki I course and we will be in touch in a few days to choose a suitable time for both of us.

Went down to my regular internet place and the guy, who had just gotten marrired as I was leaving last time, recognized me and was happy to see me. He looks "well fed" by his wife. I told him he looks like he has a good wife and he agreed with a big smile! He also has a 1 1/2 year old daughter.

Sunday

the guys who were little boys last time I was here waiting at Nick's, are now young teens.

Bumped into Avi (from the train) in the street and we had a snack together there. Saw the cakes (!) and it is going to be hard keeping away from them I can assure you, but will do my best.

Got some cheese and a whole wheat roll at Osho to have for breakfast tomorrow with my (very small and boring) fruit salad they make here. Tangerine, banana and apple....where is the pineapple, mango, papaya, pomegranates, chico (like custard apples) and strawberries from Rishikesh????

The weather here is warmer than I expected but still nice, but I will definitely need a room with fan.

Met Lauren (from Rishikesh) also and we had dinner together at Kokonor. Disappointed me...will have to check out other places for pasta in the future. Well, I mentioned one of the guesthouses I had tried but found too expensive, and seems she is staying there and has the number for the owner. I called him this evening, and he is willing to give me a room at reduced price, and I will meet him on Tuesday at 2 pm to close the deal. Hopefully will move in on saturday. The room has screens, balcony facing off the main street and a fan, as well as 24 hour a day hot water, so it looks like it should be OK. And it is in a fairly good location for me. A little out of the center but not too far and there is internet and restaurants nearby, even one in the hotel, so it is OK.

I am now sitting in a new internet place just down Tushita road from Kailwood, which has earphones and mike so if anyone wants to Messenger me, we can actually talk here. Also has USB port so I will be able to upload pictures (if I decide to take any here!).

I will write one more short post following this about certain insights I've had and haven't written about yet, but for now,

Namaste to all
Jane



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Friday, April 13, 2007

India Journal 2006 Adventures in Delhi #3

Thursday April 12th

Did ALL my shopping1 Anokhi was badly low on stock. Maybe that's better...couldn't spend so much money. I pay by Visa anyway but still managed to get a few really nice things. Some will need lsight alteration but will serve me for some time to come. They are really chic and I am pleased with my purchases. If I feel like it, I will take one more trip over there when I come back in June, if I can manage the weather then. Also found a shop for great sheets which
I will have to try out next time. FabIndia was also good, and managed a few nice things there as well. I know more now what I make best use of at home so it is easier to shop than it used to be.

Nice lunch at fancy restaurant...the Big Chill...ate there once with Abdellah and Avik on my last trip to India...But I don't have much appetitie so I had a small grilled chiken salad which was light and refreshing.

The weather is in no way debilitating and it is now 2 PM and I did lots of outdoor walking...also in my little slip in fancy sandals. Felt really nice. I usually feel so scrungy (is that a word) and clumsy and unfeminine in my closed sneakers....even if the rest of me is nicely dressed. And with my polished toe nails I fell like one of the fancy Indian ladies waling around the fancy shops here! Much nicer I must say, and I will just have to wash my feet more often but they arenot all hot and sweaty! Didn't even feel funny about going in a window shopping at some of the designer shops. the clothing is lovely, colorful, brilliantly stylish and really expensive...well for me at any rate. The stuff was between 150 and 150 shekel per item which is really not alot for the quality of the stuff, but I simply cannot allow myself that amount of money. I bought 5 full pieces in Anokhi for 200 shekel!

Went into a couple of book shops as well but went crazy so only bought one..."Chaos", which I've seen my kids reading. I don't remember the names of the books my daughters recommended. If I did, icould have just asked for them, but to search through thousands of titles was impossible. They have everything you can imagine in these shops.

I am also reading a new book I purchased yesterday called Sister of my Heart by the author of Mistress of Spices (you can see a list of all the books I have read, or am still reading on the sidebar...). She seems to have written many novels, and actually (today is friday in the aftewrnoon , I have almost finished the book10.

Now just have to decide what goes finally into the parcel for home with the beads and incense, and I'm done. (Took care of that later in the afternoon and another 17 KG package is on its way home).

I also checked out, by this time after dark, a couple of hotels still in this area but off the main road...Prince Polonia and Cottage Yes Please, for my groups. The second one is brand new and absolutely inviting, and the prices are really quite reasonable for the luxury of the place. The Prince Polonia is older, not quite as nice, and alot more expensive. So now I have a good place for my groups to stay here in delhi as well.

Friday, april 13th

Got up early and had an easy breakfast. Checking out other rooftop restaurants but nothing is really great in this warm weather. Sam's is still best as it is AC or room service of course.

got myself a couple of croissonts for the train and for breakfast tomorrow, as well as an apple and some dried fruits so I am set for the train. Have finished packing, everything is ready to go, and I will rest the afternoon away now and be ready to leave for the train at 7:30 this evening.

A good test of full acclimatiation to India perhaps would be the comfort level felt in Delhi and in dealing with the city. And I would have to give myself a high passing grade this time. Part I guess is experience, part my new perspectives onlife in genenral and really learning how to take each moment as it comes, without worry, and part, the little bit of HIndi I've been using. When a rickshaw driver gave me a price and then tried to change it after we'd left, I told him in plane words that that was not nice to do. And then he suggested my shopping someplace he knew which is "better than Khan Market"...and I simply said again, "don't do that...go straight to Khan Market" in my best Hindi, and with a smile, he zipped of at the original price and directly there. No arguments etc. Even a single phrase like "nehi chaiyie" easily gets the touts away without being nasty, and everyone really seems to appreciate the effort of my trying to communicate...It immediately brings a smile (or perhaps they are just amused at my pronouncitaion) and together with it a more relaxed mood and way of relating to me.

shop keepers, rickshaw drivers etc., just seem nicer!

I am simply enjoying these 3 days in Delhi just as much as I enjoyed my days in rishikesh, even going so far as to be out exploring after dark (everything is lit up here) which I've never done before. I wanted to try the Metro but think I will pass. Also wanted to film some street scenes on video...maybe later today, and if not, it will still be here next time I come!

Namaste.....see you in Mcleod in a couple of days
Jane

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India Journal 2006- Adventures in Delhi #2 - Just Another Perfect Day

Wednesday Evening, April 11th... Delhi Part 2
What a lovely day! (Mostly). Ilse never turned up...don't know why, but I don't know where sheis staying and she doesn't have e-mail. But I now realize I was meant to be on my own here in Delhi and it is great.

After breakfast however, I started feeling funny in my stomach only to discover I had diarrhea, which I NEVER get. I think perhaps the ice cream on the train...not that it was spoiled...but cold is very bad for my vatta and I have been avoiding it in all forms since doing Panchakarma. And perhaps the sudden cold
was not good for me. Or perhaps, as I mentioned in part 1 of this post, ALL the food in general on the train which was not good for me....Anyway, before going to the train station to get my ticket, I saw an ayurveda chemist right next door to my hotel and he gave me something to take. He looked at me and simply said "You're Vatta, travel and food and weather changes not good for you...by tomorrow you feel better for sure". And I do already feel better. Not much appetite but that is better as the food here is not wholesome and fresh as I am used to and I will probably begin eating better again once I get to McLeod.

Came back from getting my ticket which was a breeze, ate come jeera rice and then rested for a few hours. then got dressed and decided to see how much of my Paharganj shopping I could get done.

And guess what?!? I got the shoes right across the street...a pair for Shlomit and surprisingly, 2 pair for me. And then I went to the incense place and bought 3 KG (!) of various incense hich should last everyone for awhile. And then the bead shop. The guy remembered me, mainly as Abdellaji's friend. I bought 10 KG (!) of a variety of beads. Altogether only 150 shekel but another big bite into my India budget...1500 rupees plus another 2000 rupees for postage! The most expensive present I've ever brought here so far but it should serve 2 or even three people...Chanale, Dani and even Elisheva.

He will send the beads, theincense , shoes and anything else extra I collect over the next couple of days in a parcel for me. I've stopped thinking about money and am just enjoying the thrills of shoping for presents.

Tomorrow I go to get clothes for myself.

The big change is, I seem to have released my remainign fears of travel, Delhi, etc., and feel one with India completely. I am walking around in Paharganj in flip flops which may seem like no big deal to most of you, but I've never walked around here in anything but closed shoes. And suddenly, it just seems so easy and right to be completely at ease here. I don't even feel particularly hot today. Just walked around, didn't get hassled at all. Even practiced my new Hindi phrases in the shoe shop. First I asked in English for a discount on the 3 pairs of shoes but was told "Not possible...already cheap price Madam". Then I said "Iska dam, camka dijihe" and this big grin came onto the salesman face, as well as the other people in the shop who heard and he immediately gave me a 70 rupee discount which was quite nice...more than I would have expected. For me this is a real triumph as I am TERRIBLE about bargaining and usually don't even bother! And it is also so nice when a few simple words in Hindi can make people so happy!

Got back to my room with ALL my shopping done in less than 2 hours and ordered supper and when I turned o n the TV, Friends had just began.

So now, after a nice hot shower, supper and Friends, I am getting ready to sleep and quite relaxed and happy.

Yes...it's really been a lovely day!

Namaste
Jane

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Thursday, April 12, 2007

India Jouranl 2006 #42-Adventures in Delhi April 10-13 #1

Well, here I am in Delhi, a few days after my last post from Rishikesh. Today is thursday but I want to go back to tuesday and start from the beginning ot this new part of my journey. HOpefully I will get it all done today, but if not, tomorrow is another day.

April 10th 16:13
Just got onto the Shabtabdi Express from Dehra Dun to Delhi. We boarded at Hardiwar exactly on time, our luggage was placed on the upper luggage racks by a porter and we found our seats. The train is a little too chilly for me but it is the first time in over 3 weeks that I can complain of being chilly and it is a lovely feeling. Simply put on my shawel which is always with me.

I am using my IPod with earphones for the fist time and have decided to begin the journey with some musicals. I've chosen "Oklahoma" as my first choice,
have put my chair back in reclining position, and have already been brought a bottle of water and a snack on my food tray. "Tea Kit", ladoo (sweet), samosa, apple drink and some crispy masaly snack. I have so much leg room it is unbelievable and am extremely comfortable. The carriage is only 1/2 full (it filled up at the next stop). The sun is setting in the West and this going to be a lovely 5 1/2 hours...quite luxurious!!

Just a "Oklahome" ended we were served soup and roll and butter. Now I'm reclinigna dn resting again and "Camelot" is playing. Even after all these years (I was a teenager when I saw it on Broadway with my friends Jessica Dunsay and Rina Hellman), it still moves me when I hear Julie Andrews, Richard Burton and Robert Goulet as I saw them live on Broadway.

Then I decided to "dance" until dinner is served. it is now about 9 PM. Dinner is over, enormous meal. Aloo gobi (potatoes and cauliflower), paneer (cheese in sauce), rajma dahl (kidney beans and chickpeas), rice, 2 chapaties, fresh salad veggies and small earthen jug of absolutely heavenly curd for dessert. (At the time I noted that everything in the dinner were things I am not supposed to eat and have been avoiding for the past 6 weeks...little did I know how it would effect me later on....)

Now just "dancing the night away", lovely couples dances, and will probably fall asleep. Have been dozing on and off since the trip started. Anoter 1:45 to go. Really lovely...and then Delhi!!

WOW! Again being served, this time ice cream (and that was my final downfall I think)...it was really delicious! They just don't give you a minute to relax on this train!

Sitting next to me was this sweet young girl. She is 25 years old, lives in Dehra Dun and was just home for Easter Vacation from her job as air hostess out of Delhi for Air India. She is a Christian, quite beautiful and well spoken. Has an MA in economics and is basically just enjoying a few years of freedom before her parents arrange a marriage for her...she says it will be a problem as all the nice guys she meets are Hindu, and that is impossible. She is completely at peace with an arranged marriage, as she will be allowed to pick and choose until she finds one she likes. i mentioned the movie "Namaste London" to her and she said "Yes, just like that" and then we laughted awhile about the movie.

She was dressed in jeans with a plain long sleeve top and shawel and seemed quite conservative, until we neared Delhi and she was talking on the phone to her friend who was coming to pick her up. (She also arranged for him to board the train and take down our luggage for us off the rack). She removed her shawel, and long sleeve top to reveal a very revealing, low-cut, spaghetti strap shirt just short of her belly button line...And then proceeded to put on makeup and do her hair. She looked like an entirely different person!!

Our luggage was taken down off the rack by someone on the train just as we pulled into Delhi exactly on time. The first rickshaw driver who approached us gave us a perfectly fair price, 20 rupees, to our hotel and so we didn't even have to haggle. And I didn't get to use the lovely Hindi phrases I had practiced for the past few days.

In the end, he got both of us and all our luggage into one rickshaw, instead of 2, and took 30 rupees apiece but it was still perfectly OK. I he a lot of lifting of heavy stuff to fit it all into the small space and still have room for us. He left me off first, and Ilse agreed to meet me the following morning at my hotel...and that is the last I've seen of her. I really hope all is well with her, but have no way of finding out as I do not know where she is staying and she doesn't use e-mail at all.

This new Hotel, Anoop, is quite lovely. Simple, but friendly and clean. First room I was given was small but adequate but the AC did not work so they gave me another room which turns out to be a deluxe room, very large, with 3 beds in it, lovely marbel floors, 2 ceiling fans, dressing table and lovely bathroom, for the same price they were charging me for the smaller standard room. The ceiling fan sounds like a truck and the AC like a tank but now I don't need my earplugs as every possible sound is drowned out!!

Had a lovely shower and off to bed. Slept well and now the fresh morning air is coming in the windows i just opened. Will have to close them soon but now, at 7 AM, it is quite fresh and col as it was yesterday at 11 PM when we arrived. And even though it was 11 PM, it was as alive as during the day and no problem with arriving here so late at night.

The staff is really wonderfully accomodating and I am really pleased and thankful I was guided to this place.

Will get dressed and meet Ilse soon for breakfast and at 10 will see to my train ticket to Pathankot.

OK...I will end here and continue tomorrow or later with part 2 of the Delhi Adventure.

Namaste
Jane

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Monday, April 09, 2007

India Journal 2006 #41- April 9th Leaving Rishikesh

Please check the previous post as I have posted the pictures from yesterday's trip to the Shiva Temple. There are some lovely scenes there....

Tomorrow I will be leaving Rishikesh. I am taking a taxi with Ilse to Hardiwar where we will take a Shabtabdi train to Delhi. We will arrive in Delhi around 11 at night after a 5 hour train ride on a lovely train. Looks pretty much like the inside of a plane, with similar type seats, and we will be served dinner on the train. Hopefully will finish my shopping in three days and then take a train (if I can get a ticket) up to Pathankot and then a 3 1/2 taxi ride up to McLeod. Hopefully it won't take me more than a day to get settled in, so you can probably expect the next posting to be around April 16th or so. So don't worry if things seem dry for awhile.

Today I had an amazing day with a young girl here who has just now come to terms with her abilities as a "seer". She is 29. She is the same sweet girl who took me for the facial the other day. So today, we did an exercise which for me was great and for her a further affirmation and confirmation, validation and feedback for her amazing gift. She came to my room
and we thought we'd spend an hour or so but we wound up spending over 4 hours!! I had asked her if she thought she could tell me something about my family by looking at pictures and she said she would love to give it a try if I promised to be honest with her about what she said.
Well, she began and I thought she would pick a few, and in the end she did EVERYONE, as well as the couples in relationship to each other, and she was right with every single thing she said...and she also saw past lives, our connections to each other before, and in future lives perhaps, old and young souls, amazing insights...and so so right in all she said. It was really great for her and I told her that when I start bringing groups, I will bring them to her. She is planning to come to Israel, and she looks forward to meeting everyone, as she feels she knows them all intimately. It should be quite interesting.

Then had a final lunch at the Welcome Center, and will have dinner this evening also with friends. Almost finished packing. Hopefully everything will fit in to just the two bags. I'd hate to have to shlepp around a 3rd one.

I was a little teary about leaving today but good that I had this lovely 4 hours with Sandra to pass the time.

Namaste to all until I get back to this next week
Jane


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Sunday, April 08, 2007

India Journal 2006 #40 April 8th-Coming Down to the Rishikesh Finish Line



Shiva Temple





Well, tomorrow is my last day here. It will be very hard to leave this place for many reasons, and leaving the lovely people I've met here is one of them. I've had such a wonderful group of friends here from the day I arrived, and it is really like leaving family. We've become very close and have been mutually helping each other go through many different things. Happy times, sad times, confusing times, chaning times...it has been quite an amazing 2 months here and it is not easy to think I leaving in one more day.

I am leaving for Delhi on Tuesday. If I didn't have to go shopping in Delhi, I would go straight to Dharamsala, but as hot as it is now in Delhi, about 40 degrees, it will still be better now than in June when I come through again to go home. I need to by beads for my daughters, incense for the family and myself, some sandals for another daughter and maybe even myself, and of

course my own clothing for the next couple of years. I will be travelling with Ilse and she will take me to some nice places she knows in Connaught place which I don't know of, and the next day I will take her to Khan Market which she has never been too. We have to get there by Rickshaw which will be really hot, but once there, both places have AC shops and eating places so it should be OK. And I will do my shopping in Paharganj in the evenings , and my room is AC with TV, so I guess I will survive. I still have no train ticket to Pathankot as even 3 weeks ago the trains were full, but I will most probably be able to get a Tourist Quota ticket but must do that in person in the Train Station in Delhi, so that will be my first order of business there on Wednesday morning.

Today, Sunday, I went with Ainat, Ilse and Shakti to the Shiva Temple up in the mountains. It was an absolutely beautiful ride up there and reminded me of how much I love the mountains.










It was interesting to see the temple, but I don't really get too excited about this stuff. Seeing the people is always more interesting to me and the people here are all so JOYFUL in their worship. Below is a picture of the offerings people buy to leave in the temple...



Shakti also did some photo shooting and here you can see her interacting with the people she photographs...







but the day was very hot, the driver was a maniac, the roads bad, and I was out in the sun much too much for me, and really not feeling well now....will rest up the rest of today and tomorrow as well. Just have to pack. Nothing much else to do. The pictures for this post I will add later, so you can go back and check it out in a couple of days. Some of the views are really fabulous.

We also tried out a new restaurant today and now that I know where it is, I look forward to eating there often upon my return. La Bella View it is called and they have both wonderful Italian, and Israeli food. And regular other stuff as well. On the Ganga, beautiful view, very clean and pleasantly cool when most places are atrociously hot these days, so much so that they kill your appetite completely.

Well, I'll close this for now. I may not write again for some time because if it is very hot in Delhi, I won't be able to sit at the internet. So I MIGHT not write again until I get to McLeod, so don't worry if there is nothing new here for awhile. Will try to get the pics on tomorrow, and then I will be lucky if I find broadband internet as nice as here when I get to Dharamsala.

Namaste
Jane





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Saturday, April 07, 2007

India Journal 2006-#39, April 7th. THE Reason to Come to Rishikesh!!

Forget yoga, panchakarma, Shiva, Ganesh, Ashrams, gurus, the Holy Ganga, Pujas, mountain walks, white-water rafting, jungle safaris, temples, great views, dental treatments, delicious food and fabulous shopping. THE reason to come to Rishikesh is what you see below!!




I have just had the most amazing pampering I have ever had anywhere in my life, and when I bring my groups of women here, this will be THE highlight of the tour I'm sure. I went into Rishikesh to a Beauty Salon to do a facial at the suggestion of a lovely young girl here
who noticed I was down a couple of days ago and insisted on taking me there at HER expense for a facial. (You can also do manucure and pedicure there as well as getting a haircut and head massage.)

I was taken care of by at least 3 lovely women, including the owner, and, just like all the other Indian women being taken care of at the place, treated to complete luxury care for 2 whole hours at the price of 250 rupees!! (No tipping allowed). I never imagined so many lovely things could be done to my face, my back and my decollage and half way down my chest, and arms. And after having loving hands take care of me using a variety of creams, lotions, gels etc., I was then given a "tightening" mask ("because Madam, you have a few wrinkles"). It was done with my lying on a very comfortable treatment chair completely relaxed, with AC and a fan to keep me comfortable, wearing a gown provided by the salon.






Once it was all over, and I touched my face I did not believe it was my own skin. It was soft and smooth as a baby's behind. I've had many facials in my life, but NEVER something to compare to this. If I had known about this place when I first arrived, I probably would have gone once every couple of weeks.

So...it's been a fabulously fun day, I am relaxed, look wonderful (my face truly is glowing) and feel almost decadent for enjoying something so much.

So, ladies, get ready to join the group. And this will be the highlight I guarantee!!

Namaste
Jane

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Friday, April 06, 2007

India Journal 2006 #38- THE PERFECT SOLUTION TO "DOWN"




My first "down" day. No desire to do anything. Started packing but will NEVER have room for everything I've picked up here. Sick of the restaurants and having to decide what to eat each meal, and where to eat it. To hot to go to most of the nice places I like to eat at. I've been completely off sugar in all forms for almost 3 weeks now, not even in drinks, and I would normally feel like coffee or cake right now, but don't. And also no caffeine for a longer time...so ice coffee doesn't do it for me either.






Yesterday I bought cheese and grapes for lunch
which was nice but still not what I need! I think leaving here is getting to me as I know I won't be back for much longer than I had originally planned. I am also on a tight budget now and not doing some of the things I had wanted to do.
Don't know, just down, teary. I know it will all pass and hopefully before leaving for Delhi in a few days. I have lovely friends here who are "being" with me and that is wonderful, to have someone to cry to.



AND THEN I FIND THE SOLUTION. SO SIMPLE! After getting a quick hair trim from Ilse, I am sitting in my room, feeling bad when all of a sudden I realize I can DANCE!!

And Dance I did for 2 whole hours!!! After only 2-3 dances I already found myself lighthearted and smiling, singing along, and completely enjoying myself. And to finish it all off, I went down, ordered a lovely piece of carrot cake and had my first Masala Chai in 3 weeks! So simple to beat the "down".






The lovely pictures in this post are all from the same evening, following the dancing and sweet pick-me-up, and just added to my renewed good spirits.



Namaste
Jane

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India Journal 2006 #37 April 4th, FAMILY INTRIGUE IN RISHIKESH


I was invited to dinner at Vivek's house (the guy where I did the Panchakarma). He's been wanting me to come for some time and it just never worked out. He came to pick me up at 7 PM and took me to his house on the outskirts of Rishikesh on the way to Hardiwar. They live in the school where his wife works. His 2 1/2 year old daughter, Isabella,
was in the car and when we arrived at his place I met his wife and mother-in-law who was visiting from Dehradun. Deepak also came for dinner and it was great seeing them.

I pretty much found myself very uncomfortably in the midst of a family conflict precipitated by the meal prepared in my honour. I will try to write everything that conspired and explain the strange framework of this family as best as possible. There was much inner tension at home which eneded in his wife spilling out to me all her frustrations and anger at her plight, right in front of


Vivek. The little girl had gone out for a walk (at 10 PM) with grandma, and Deepak had already gone home by this time. Only later, did Vivek give his side of the story. She ass all the duties of anormal Indian wife, daughter and mother, plus the fact that she works (as do many modern Indian women) in a full time job as a primary school prinicpal and administrator. And of course he feels he does more to help than any of his contemporaries who wouldn't be caught dead doing the things he does like cooking, childcare etc. , but she still feels the injustice in the division of roles etc. It is not a new story, but it is new for India and this generation seems to be caught between tradition and moving forward but not able to be completely in either place . Sort of floating between here and there and finding themselves confused, ambivilent and frustrated by how things are changing, and not changing at the same time. I'm sure the next generation will be quite different, much as my daughters' marriages are so different than mine was. And I told them this. His help is still by her as small gestures, not real participation and cooperation, and in the end I would up giving a full hour conseling session!

You can see from the body language in this picture how detached they are from each other even when posing for a picture of a loving couple!

On the way home, Vivek furthered explained things to me, following his wife's declaration that "We have LOVE marriage, but most people who have fixed marriages seem alot more content than we are". It seems his wife, Sanjeeta, wants to go live in UK and he has agreed to let her go off on her own, leaving Isabella in his care, or rather the care of Mother and Mother-in-law. He is sure that she will come back home very quickly as he is convinced she will be miserable there. He's taking quite a chance as she is very determined, British convent educated with an MBA, highly intelligent and eloquent of speech, and I think she just might make it there. If she will be happy, I don't know, but he may find himself without a wife for some time...and that brings me to the background of this entire family history,.

His parent slive in Rishikesh. He comes from a long line of Ayurveda doctors and teachers and they do not interfere in his life. They lived with his parents for awhile but it became too difficult once the little girl was born as his wife had to take her with her to work each day, and so they have "shifted" to a small apartment at the school where she works, the little girl now attends school daily and life seems easier.
Her family....the father is a retired government bureaucrat from the days of the Raj, who now lives in Rishikesh as well while his wife continues to live in the family home in Dehradun. Seems he always travelled for his work and he and his wife pretty much moved apart and lead separate lives for many years. So upon retiring her simply took a 2 room flat in Rishikesh where he also runs the school where Sanjeeta works. This is all very frustrating for her as he still lives in the "old educational system" he, and she, grew up in and as prinicpal and administrator she would like to introduce new ideas but cannot, as she cannot show disrespect to her father, who is also her boss.

All in all an eye opening evening. Vivek was very disturbed by the fact that she prepared a VERY simple meal, and also made it non-spicey for me....he had expected something better for his company, but after working and taking care of a little girl (who is a real spoiled brat) all day, I can imagine how tired she was and was quite pleased with the meal. But it seems that he criticized her in front of Deepak and his mother-in-law while we were eating and this is what started the whole business later in the evening.

India is sometimes so unexpected and surprising that it leaves me open-mouthed and with nothing to say.

and coming home that evening, I began to think of so many things and had difficult falling asleep, which probably contributed to the next day, which you will read about (or probably HAVE already read in the previous post.
Namaste
Jane

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India Journal 2006 #36 Monkeyshines

If you click on these pics you can enlarge them.

I don't know if you can see, but there is a little tiny newborn monkey hiding in Mom's arms while she grooms older brother! I just thought these were so cute, I could sit and watch them for hours.....






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Wednesday, April 04, 2007

Indian Journal 2006 #35-Aarti Puja Rishikesh Ghat




This afternoon Ilse and I decided to go for a walk, as it is now only really possible to be out after 4. But after 4 it is quite lovely, with warm weather but beautiful breezes. We spent hours walking and basically were on our way to the Shiva Puja in Swargashram (across Ram Jula). This puja, like the one in Hardiwar, takes place everyday of the year. But that is the only thing they have in common. I will do my best to describe this puja, using photographs as well, but the real "seeing" of this puja involves "hearing" as well, and so I've taken several short videos with sound, but will only be able to post them when I get home.

As I said, the only thing in common the two pujas have are that they are performed each day at 6 PM.

But beginning with the statue of Shiva,


which you remember in Hardiwar was over 30 meters high and surrounded by a fence...untouchable and hardly inviting to the average person...very pretentious. As was everything else about the puja...commercial, crowded, and not something I would ever want to go see again. Nothing really sacred or holy about the entire affair in general.

And then, beginning with the Shiva statue at the Rishikesh ghat, to the entire ceremony, the first word which came to mind was unpretentious. And honest, and "everyman's". You can see how lovely and peaceful the shiva statue is here, and more "human" size, and certainly touchable. People were sitting ON the statue.

Instead of thousands upon thousands of people, there were a few hundred. All dressed in new clean clothing and truly there for the ceremony (which is what puja means). The gathering was quiet and respectful...no frolicking in the Ganga, picnicking etc.
The closest thing I can compare it to, in its sincerity and sheer jubilence of worshipping spirit, would be a Black American Church with everyone singing Gospel along with the Church choir. And if you have that picture in mind, you will understanding how moving and lovely this puja truly was.




The Church choir was a group of young boys, all studying to be Hindu priets someone told me, but I am not sure, dressed in lovely yellow remnants with the white signs of Shiva worship painted on their forheads.
They lead the chanting and everyone present joined in with handclapping, swaying, raising of arms as if to say "Halleluja", smiles of joy on most faces, and spiritual concentration on the others.
The ceremony ended when little plates which had wicks to light on them from the central fire were passed around from hand to hand so that each person present could get a blessing directly from Shiva.
And each person took it in hand, made circular motions with the plate and gently passed it on to another person so that everyone present eventually got a plate of fire (including us!). I really wish the videos were available to you now.

I would gladly come back here again just to enjoy the moving music and chanting as well as the glowing faces of those who are truly "with" their god in the moment of prayer and worship.

And just as quietly as everyone converged for the puja, once it was over they dispersed just as quietly back home....quite lovely and inspiring. I hope the pictures do some justice to the experience.

And just to end a perfect evening, we had a lovely view of Rishikesh at night while having a snack of Naan for dinner before heading back to our rooms, inspired, happy and at peace.



Namaste
Jane
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India Journal 2006 April 3, Walk Before Puja

Below, some pictures from the walk TO the Puja. We took a very long way around, enjoying the walk from Laxman Jula all the way down to Ram Jula...window shopping, (and, to my dismay, even buying) along the way, and simply taking in some more lovely scenes as you can see from the following photos.

Just a lovely flower we saw along the way...don't know the name but it is actually a blooming tree.



And another couple of views of the Laxman Jula Temples from another vantage point.





And another bridgeview:



While walking along on the far side of the River, we were able to get this view of our guesthouse...that's the area, half way up the slope, nestled in the mountain. It is really inspiring to see it from afar and realize how much walking I do here!






This is one of the local ashrams as viewed from across the river.

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Monday, April 02, 2007

India Journal 2006 #34 March 31-April 2 The Weather, the Mosquitoes and Money

Well, the last couple of days have really gotten too too hot. It is hard to be out between 11-5 and that is most of the day. and by 6 it starts getting dark. Will have to see how I go about the next 10 days. But so far, I've had a nice couple of days. (see the post about my parcel and the Post Office experience).

I spend more time in my room relaxing and more time with friends chatting so it's basically OK.

I also made up a flyer for Reiki etc., and while I was doing it, a lady in the internet cafe saw me and asked about it. So she came for the first time on Sunday, and as it was her first experience with ANY kind of energy work or alternative stuff, she was quite skeptical. Well, when the treatment was over,
after she came "back" to the room and found her mouth and got it working, she asked if she could come again. And that is what she is now doing. She came again today and will come again tomorrow, and the Reiki is really doing wonderful things for her. SHE is very happy she met me, and I am very happy for her. I love to see the glow in people's faces when they experience this kind of thing for the first time. And so I have had a good reason for at least 3 days for sticking close to home. And also gives me a little money which I've been spending much too much of here!! Wanted a couple of more massages and maybe buy some more books, and essential oils but it is just too hot, and when it finally gets cooler, the mospquitoes come to visit. Up until 2 days ago, there weren't any at all!! Now I am trying out various kinds of natural solutions and ways of sleeping at night to try and keep them away from me. (But all this put together saves me money in the end...)

I've also had trouble sleeping at night and trying to work out the best option. (I think last night I finally hit on it). The fan in the room is a little too strong to leave on all night. But when it is on, no mosquitos can land. And when it is off, I need the air from the windows but there are not screens. so for the last 2 nights I tried all kinds of combos but didn't sleep well. Tonight, no matter what, I will keep the windows closed and see how I manage with the fan all nite. Hope that works. (Didn't, but found a good solution last night....my neighbor gave me Neem oil which he said was good. I tried it, and when I shut off the fan, and opened one window to let in some air -keeping the curtain closed but still allowing air in, I slept beautifully. I was not even covered by the sheet, and not one mosquito found its way to me. So I guess the Neem Oil works, and tonight, I will try one other solution. A local Ayurveda cream which the guy in the shop said works perfectly. Said to try it tonight and if it doesn't work, to bring it back for full refund! So I'll try that as well.

Shakti also came back yesterday and it was a lovely reunion.

In just 8 days I 'm off to Delhi. Time goes by very quickly and before you know it I will be in McLeodganj!

That's about it for today. The next post will tell of the interesting Post Office experience. Being out this morning was not quite as bad as I thought but I DID need to take a rickshaw back up...no way could I have walked in the heat.

May go to the Seder at Beit Chabad tonight if Ainat insists, but I would just as soon stay in my room and relax. Will let you know in my next post what happened.

Namaste and Chag Sameach to all.
Jane

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India Journal 2006 THE POST OFFICE SAGA

Well, it all began when I arrived on February 5th and began accumulating, very slowly at first, things to put in a parcel to send home. In the beginning it seemed to be a simple straighforward thing. And I've done it many times before in the past so didn't think much of it at the time.

The size of the parcel grew as each week went by, and I added to it many things which I no longer needed to carry with me, making room in my bag for new things I had bought along the way.

The paracel includes my stuff which I am sending back as well as many gifts, medications (mostly ayurveda stuff I bought) and a couple of books etc., When I finally decided it was enough,
I took it slowly, a couple of small boxes at a time down to the local tailor to have it sewn into a proper parcel. The maximum parcel weight is 20 KG and this one seemed to have been about up to the limit once it was packed.

Once done, I needed someone to help me get it down to the post office. No rickshaw comes all the way up here and no rickshaw, even if someone gets me into one, will take me all the way to the Post Office.

So, in the end, the guys here agreed to help me on one of their motorbikes. I assumed (something which I try never to do, but for some reason did), that he would put the package between his legs on the floor of the motorbike. But no. He expected ME to carry the package as well as keep myself seated on the bike. It weighed over 17 KG! I was sure both the parcel and me would fall off. But we somehow made it down to the Post Office. The guy carried it down several flights of stairs only to find the PO closed!! Why? Who knows?? What to do?? The thought of going back up with it and then down again the next day, especially in this heat, didn't sit well with me. So I remembered my friend the chemist just a few shops down from the PO. The guy carried the parcel for me to the chemist shop and as soon as he, the chemist, saw me he said "yes, yes...closed today...end of "money"year...March 31st...leave here...OK...come back Monday". And I did just that!

Came back today, Monday, and he helped me carry the parcel up to the PO. Only to find the power was out so they couldn't weigh it. And I certainly couldn't carry back to the chemist shop. I couldn't even lift it (or so I thought). They said I could leave it there and come back later. So, back to my friend the chemist, bought a couple of more things that I needed and then tried again at the PO. Power on! Weighted in! Had to lift it twice myself, onto the scale and then down into the main parcel room. 17+ KG is REALLY heavy. Whoever picks this up in Israel will have to bring some form of transportation to get it home for sure!

Everything, to their great surprise, was OK on the parcel outside, but I've done this before so I know what they want written there.

And then paying. To my surprise, again, it was over 2000 rupees!!! Prices have gone up but I didn't want to send it cheaper by regular sea mail so decided to apy. It raises the parice of everything I bought by about 30% but...what to do??

Then, I realized I didn't have that much money with me. So out and down again. Asked the chemist about changing money and he told me where to do it nearby. Changed the $50 and back up again. Fill in a short form, not like the long ones in McLeodganj...pay the money and done!

Hopefully it will get home before I do. And in one piece.

And that's it for today!

Namaste
Jane

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